Ember Roasted Artichokes, Neapolitan Style
THESE EMBER ROASTED ARTICHOKES are one of the great pleasures of the spring season in the Campania region. They are a signature dish of Pasquetta (little Easter), the Italian holiday that is celebrated on the Monday following Easter Sunday, which typically involves an outing to the country with family and friends, a pleasurable meal in an causal setting, and a barbecue.
They also typically show up to brighten tables when families gather together for the traditional Sunday feast meals. Or else, they can always be found roasting away at roadside stands in the villages beneath the slopes of Mount Vesuvius, in case you’d like to stop and buy some directly from the local farmers or their friends (the real masters of this preparation).
Campanian’s typically seek out the “Carciofi Violetti di Schito” (Schito artichokes) from Castellammare di Sabia, a province of Naples, for this, which make their grand appearance at the local farm stands from February through mid May. Otherwise, they use Roman artichokes, which are similar; a greenish-purple globe variety that is compact, free of thorns, tender, meaty, and delicate tasting with barely no choke at all.
Even though the artichokes are filled with just a few ingredients for this preparation; garlic, parsley, salt, pepper, and extra-virgin olive oil or lard (rendered pork fat), and then roasted in a manner as simple as can be – directly over the radiant embers of an open fire – don’t think by any means they lack in flavor or depth. They are delicious and immensely satisfying; an absolute sure-bet welcomed addition to any springtime barbecue in every sense of the rustic way.
Like myself, many Campanian cooks like to use some salumi (cold cuts), such as pancetta (Italian bacon), Neapolitan salami, or prosciutto, chopped into little cubes, in the filling as well. Others add a few anchovies, drained of their oil and finely chopped. So please feel free to modify this recipe and include any additions that you’d like. For this recipe, I use about 3-ounces (85 grams) of salumi, but you can add more or less depending on your own personal preference.
Roasting directly on the radiant heat of the embers gives a lovely aromatic quality to the artichokes as a result of the smoking and burning effects. But to achieve “ottimo” (the greatest) results, a tender core inside the charred surface with an intense smokey, aromatic taste, the temperature of the embers are important when you begin the cooking. If the embers are too hot the surface of the artichokes will blacken quickly and not leave enough time for the inner core to soften. The simple, yet crucial rule of thumb is to just light the coals, and when no more black smoke is emitted and the embers have turned grey/white, they are ready – the perfect temperature.
Resist the temptation to take the artichokes off the embers when they have blackened – allow them enough time to slowly roast, turning them in their upright position occasionally, until they are tender on the inside, which, depending on their size, usually takes about 30 minutes. Don’t fret, when the artichokes are cooked, the charred external leaves will be removed and you will have something mighty delicious to sink your teeth into, Neapolitan style.
Ingredients
- 8 artichokes globe variety; large and compact
- 1 large bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley about 20 sprigs or so, finely minced
- 2 large garlic cloves finely minced, or more to taste
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil plus extra for drizzling
Instructions
- Set up the barbecue. Light the coals, and when no more black smoke is emitted and the embers have turned grey/white, they are ready.
- Meanwhile, in a medium size bowl, combine the parsley and garlic and season with salt and a generous grinding of black pepper. Drizzle in the olive oil and toss well to combine.
- Prepare the artichokes, trim the stems to about about 1 1/2-inches. Remove any small leaves on the stem. Using a kitchen sheer, trim about 1-inch off the tips of the tough outer leaves surrounding the base - the bottom 2 layers.
- Rinse the artichokes under cold running water, taking care to also rinse between the leaves. Bang them upside down a few times on a work surface so that the leaves spread more easily. Dry the artichokes with paper towels, then let drain for a moment upside down in a large bowl.
- Spread apart the leaves of the artichoke so you can reach the center, then stuff it with about 2 tablespoons of the filling. Drizzle into the center over the top of the filling a little additional olive oil. Squeeze the artichokes closed to obtain their original form. Set aside in a bowl standing upright while you prepare the remaining artichokes.
- Place the artichokes standing upright onto the hot embers and gently twist and turn to submerge them slightly. Roast the artichokes until the outer leaves are well charred, basically black, and the core is tender, about 30 minutes - turning them in their upright position occasionally.
- Remove the artichokes from the embers and set aside until cool enough to handle. Using a paring knife, remove the burnt outer leaves and clean the base.
- They are delicious as is, or, if you'd like, you can season them with an additional sprinkle of salt, pepper, and extra-virgin olive before serving them warm or room temperature.
- Buon Appetito (Enjoy your meal) !